Wednesday, 23 January 2013

The alternative to Komatipoort


Kruger National Park – Giriyondo gate to Mozambique coast
Expected travelling times – note not distance. Also this is to be expected when dry.
Giriyondo - Massingir - 2hrs.
Massingir – Bilene - 3 to 4hrs.
Bilene - Xai-Xai -  1.5hrs.
Xai-Xai - Inhambane (Tofo) - 3.5hrs, the new road is very good and finished all the way to Inhambane turnoff. The part into Inhambane is slow going. From the town take the Tofo road and head straight at Bar Balaza towards Barra Lodge – can get very busy but some of the best lodges in Moz on this strip. DON’T drive on the beach, hefty penalties apply of up to R20 000.
Inhambane (Tofo) – Vilankulos - 4hrs. Watch out for the sand road short cut signposted coming back from Inhambane about 15km before Lindela (the main road).  
The route - Through KNP to Giriyondo Border Post
·         Enter Kruger National Park at Phalaborwa gate.
·         Travel in the direction of Letaba Restcamp - Distance is 50km. Travelling time at Park speed limit is not less than 1 hour but provide for 1,5 to 2,0 hours to allow for game viewing as well.
·         At the intersection with the north/south tarred road in Kruger National Park, approx 1km before reaching Letaba Restcamp, turn left in the direction of Mopani Restcamp.
·         Travel north for 20,4km. Initially the road follows the Letaba river before the bridge crossing. Game viewing in this area is usually excellent. At the signposted intersection turn right onto a gravel road travelling in direction Makhadzi Picnic Site and Giriyondo Border Post for a further 24,5km (Total distance: Letaba-Giriyondo is 44,9km. Travelling time at Park speed limit is not less than 1 hour but provide for 1,5 to 2,0 hours to allow for game viewing as well.) Make sure of gate times..
Border crossing
·         Both the SA and Mozambique Border Posts are in the same modern thatched complex, divided simply by rolling gates.
·         Border authorities are friendly and helpful on both sides of the border .
Entry into Mozambique
·         Visitor visas not applicable for SA residents. Visas can be purchased at Giriyondo and paid for in Rands (R564), US Dollars ($108) or Euros (E77) for no SA passport holders.
·         Entry permit into Parque Nacional do Limpopo (PNL) the Mozambique sector of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park at border post.
·         Once-off fee of R67 per person (for up to 30 day stay)
·         Vehicle entry fee is R67 per vehicle
Third Party Insurance
·         At the time of writing it is not necessary to purchase Mozambiquan Third Party whilst travelling in PNL.
·         However on departure from the Park into the rest of Mozambique it is a requirement.
·         Third Party insurance can be purchased at the PNL exit gate at Massingir and costs approximately R150, but it is advisable to purchase it beforehand from various Outdoor warehouse shops or from the AA.
·         The insurance is valid for 30 days.
It is vitally important to remember
·          Passports – valid for 6 months from entry date.
·          Vehicle documents, note: If the bank is the title holder, then get a letter from the finance institution that states you may take the vehicle over the border. The same applies for trailers and boats.
·          A letter from your insurance company, that states the vehicle is covered in     Mozambique.
·          A valid SA drivers licence, as well as a valid international drivers licence from the AA.
·          The Border Post closes at 15h00 in winter months (1 April to 30 September) and 16h00 in s (1 October to 31 March). Do not arrive after the border closing time because you will be sent back!!)
Through Parque Nacional do Limpopo to Machampane Wilderness Camp and then to Massingir exit gate
·          On completion of border and park formalities exit the Giriyondo Border Post complex on the only road. The road is a reasonable gravel one which travels in a southerly direction. Please drive carefully and watch out for the speed-humps, some of which are very high. The speed limit in PNL is 40km/h.
·          Very few animals are present at the moment, but keep an eye out for Elephants.
If camping on route
Machampane camp is an option for an overnight stop, but because it is a destination in own right, it is advisable to allow enough time to experience this camp. If however you are looking for a purely overnight stop camp, then there are a few other options – info on request.
To Machampane Camp
It is a lovely camp. Quite upmarket if you look at the accommodation; 5 luxury tents in wooden decks, very nice bedding, wooden furniture, en-suite bathroom with shower and toilet. However the atmosphere at the camp is very relaxed and laid back. The staff are very friendly. There is a 'restaurant' deck where the meals are served, but I believe you can also book the accommodation without meals. You can then either use their kithcen to prepare your meals or ask the staff to prepare it for you for a small fee.
It is situated right on the Machampane River, which always has some activity going on. Last time we had elephants at the river at night.
·         At 27.8km look out for signpost to Machampane Camp at the Y-junction in the road.
·         The main road to Massingir bears left and the road to Machampane Wilderness Camp bears right on the less well travelled road. 
·         After 600 meters, turn right at the signposted turning to Machampane Camp.
·         After 2,0km you will pass an Elephant Release Boma on the right hand side
·         Beyond this and for the last 3,0km the road becomes more rugged.
·         Cross the Machampane River on the stone causeway very carefully and 200 meters later you will be in the Camp. There is no "ritz and glitz" entry gatepost, simply the unspoilt bush and tented camp.
·         The staff will have heard your vehicle and should be waiting to welcome you!!
·         Travelling time from Giriyondo to Machampane is approximately 1.0 to 1,5 hours depending on the wildlife you see.
From Machampane Camp
·         Travel back the 5,0km to the Giriyondo/Massingir main road.
·         Turn right and travel approximately 50km to the Massingir exit gate to PNL.
·         It is not always well signposted but if you always bear left and follow the well-travelled section you will arrive at Massingir gate safe and sound.
·         Approximately 25,0km from Machampane you will by-pass the village of Mavodzi on its northern side. In the early morning and late afternoon young herdsman drive the village cattle to water-holes along this road so please drive carefully. The young herdsmen are likely to ask/beg for sweets or money (in Shangaan) but please ignore these requests. There are a number of initiatives to support community needs and support of begging undermines these. 
·         The road becomes more corrugated and stony as you travel south in the park so please drive carefully
·         Travelling time from Machampane to Massingir exit gate is approximately 1,5 hours
·         Remember to purchase Mozambiquan Third Party Insurance here for approximately R150. The cover is valid for 30 days. From Massingir exit gate of Parque Nacional do Limpopo to Bilene
The route to Massingir Town: 
·         Leaving PNL through the Massingir exit gate the road travels for 5km along the top of the Massingir Dam wall which affords an amazing view of this very large dam. Whilst there are signs indicating that stopping is prohibited, many visitors do in fact stop for a few minutes to photograph the dam
·         The town of Massingir lies to the south of the road approximately 6km from the exit gate. Time permitting it is worth popping in to the village for a short visit to the market.
·         Fuel is available at a filling station on the eastern outskirts of Massingir. Payment for fuel must be made in cash which can be either Rands or Meticals
The route Massingir Town to Macia: 
·         From Massingir Town travel on the only paved road travelling in a south-easterly direction towards Chokwe.
·         Approximately 105km from Massingir is a T-intersection.
·         Turn right at this intersection in the direction of Chokwe (a left turn here would take you to the town of Macarretane and across the Limpopo River - if you cross the river you know you have gone in the wrong direction!!)
·         Approximately 25km from the T-junction you will enter the southern outskirts of the town of Chokwe.  It is a large sprawling town and the only major town in the area.
·         Simply follow the road, obeying the speed limits, and you will exit the urban limits travelling in the direction of the EN1 and Bilene.
·         This road travels through the flood-plain of the Limpopo river and you will see irrigation channels on either side of the road that carry water to the farming land.
·         Approximately 60km from Chokwe you will enter the town of Macia and shortly thereafter reach the T-junction with the EN1. On the opposite side of the road is an Engen Filling Station where fuel is available
The route Macia to Bilene:
·         At the T-junction with the EN1 in Macia turn right in the direction of Maputo.
·         Shortly after turning right keep a careful look-out for the sign indicating a left turn to Bilene.
·         Turn left to Bilene
·         If you pass a BP Filling Station located on the right hand side of the road then you have missed the turn-off to Bilene so do a U-turn and   
·         Approximately 33km from Macia you will enter the town of Bilene and shortly thereafter you will reach a T-junction overlooking the lagoon
Bilene to Inhambane
·         Follow the  EN1 in a Northerly direction until you reach Inhambane. The road surface is very good and can be done in a normal sedan vehicle. Always endeavour to travel during day time in Mozambique, for most local vehicles aren’t really road worthy in terms of lighting etc.
·         When in Inhambane do your best to vist Tofo..very nice beach bars and restaurants and , visit Bamboozi and Casa Barry.

Also remember that all the locals eat locally, in other words most foodstuffs are available. Do visit a local market for fresh ingredients - just rinse properly! Fresh seafood in abundance at very good prices as are fresh Pao (bread) daily - makes for excellent Prego's! Take your meat along - frozen and vacuum packed. Very good charcoal available everywhere, the wood though not that good!
When crossing the border, be polite, take off your hat and sunglasses, and just ask the border staff (officials) they will always assist - eventually. The runners (hired help) are usually very expensive and I have never used them - for good reason. Have at least some Mets handy, especially at the border for costs incurred, and remember the 3rd party insurance and import documents on electronic stuff. Have vehicle papers handy, if still financed get docs from the bank that gives you permission to travel across border, as well as letter from your insurance that your vehicle is covered in Moz. make copies of everything and keep in a folder to produce when stopped. ALWAYS stick to the indicated speed limit..And when stopped don’t haggle, pay the spot fine and ask for your receipt – more reason to have Mets handy. However in more than 20 years of travelling in Moz, I have not once paid a bribe, and just once been fined for speeding!
The AA also gives very up to date info on what to have handy and sells ZA stickers, reflective jackets etc.
Make sure you have Tracks4Africa on your GPS, and get the latest information on roads and routes before departure.

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